Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Day 87 - Faroes - day 3 - Mykines - the best day ever


Day 87   - Mykines – the best day ever

Mykines


Lesson......listen to the man who has lived in the area for 50 years. His gentle warnings about the wind were all too true. It sounds like theatre but even thought there wasn't a cloud in the sky the wind was horrendous – Susan and I were wide awake from 5 am and even Jack woke up as we thought the canvas roof would be ripped off, at one point we were ready to get Jack and Katie down from the top of the van and decamp into the tent.



The small and only hamlet on the isle of Mykines
At 8 am I was up and the wind had dropped. We made sandwiches, packed Jack’s rucksack and drove back down to the port. It was dead when we arrived and the port was empty but within 10 minutes cars were rolling in ready to get the boat to Mykines




The ferry man turned up with a list of those who had booked. My ‘gene pool’ has given me a ‘cup less than half full’ approach to most things and having mot received any reply from my internet booking I was amazed to see our names on the list and my word I was so glad....I really really felt for those who he turned away as I had only booked it by chance ...one of those annoying websites that doesn’t reply......... A once in a lifetime experience and we had managed to get on it

Mykines is the best place I have ever been for a day trip ...by a country country mile....and I have been to almost all of the Scottish isles, most of which I would gladly live in but none ( shoot me down as I feel a massive betrayal of all I have loved over many years) compare with Mykines

We are blessed with the best of days, the day is sunny (which is rare in the Faroes) and the wind is up.

As we board he warns us that we might get wet so Jack and I find a spot under the back of the wheelhouse and spend the next 40 minutes laughing our heads off at those brave enough to step out onto the deck area for a proper soaking. The seas are again big but the boat is powerful only slowing for the roughest of areas of the crossing. Susan, Katie and Charlie go below.

Mykines has a permanent population of about 10 with about 3 times as many houses – the daily summer boat, if the seas allow, is supported by a helipad that does a couple of runs per week but otherwise it is well out on its own – an island of sea cliffs with a small hamlet at the western end surrounded by fields of grass.

 We have 6 hours in this perfect peaceful place. We have a drink in the hamlet cafe and then take a slow walk out to the lighthouse at the most westerly point.

Mykines harbour with winch
None of us are birdwatchers but there has to be something quite wrong with you if you don't like watching puffins. Small awkward birds and better in water than out, incapable of landing smoothly ( they come in quickly, use their back legs to steady their flight and generally touch down with a bit of a bump)
Puffin gets direct score on C;s cheek
 It is a puffin paradise that you could sit in, walk by, watch and enjoy hour after hour. The walk involves a section carved out of the cliff side but protected by a steel cable to hold on to that takes you from the main island down and over a bridge to the 1 Km long lighthouse island. The bridge is version no. 3 after the other 2 have fallen into the sea and it sits right next to the gannets who smoother the bright white cliff side in their nests.

They let you get real close
We lie in the grass in the sun, have our lunch, and then Jack and I go on to the Lighthouse.

We return slowly to the village, have a beer and waffles in the primitive cafe, take a wander round the village and then board the boat back for a rough ride home.



It just feels a real privilege to have had the opportunity to get out there and see it as we did and also to see it all in glorious sunshine.....an unforgettable day to take to the grave

Back in the van we make our way back to Torshavn, get some takeaway pizza, and board the ferry at 11:30 pm. We are straight to bed, knackered from our top day and our terrible previous night’s sleep worrying about the roof coming off the van.



Torshavn - rain coming down in the twilight
 Day 87 Akranesker (Fo) to Torshavn – Denmark Ferry  68 Km Total 12536 Km

                

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